Tel Aviv

Highway to the Danger Zone!*

Our brief stint in the Amman area (but not in Jordan...) was coming quickly to a close (which is sad) but I'm so EXCITED today we head over the border into Israel. The long day of activity from yesterday encouraged a great night's sleep but the excitement of today's adventure got us to our toes and moving bright and early.

Once we packed up and rearranged all of our personal affects we ran downstairs to grab some breakfast before heading out. Abu Rashad was ready and waiting so we only had a few minutes to ward off... here he... oh my gosh... and here he is. (Question: does this only happen to me?!) This kid is in full chef paraphernalia with (WITH) his eyes all done up in kohl not unlike an Egyptian queen. I'm aware this is a Bedouin thing as it protects light eyes from the sun but I'm not sure there is any necessity whatsoever to slap it all over the peepers for a morning INside...

Whatever. After begrudgingly taking another photo or two, we successfully avoided engaging in extended conversation, checked out, and were out the door before he could find out if we enjoyed our omelets. Ugh. No. I didn't! What with your lurking!

We drove past some viewpoints Abu deemed picture-worthy and then we were off to the border. I can't tell you what it's like to go alone because he watched over us the entire time as we prepared to leave the country. He arranged our passports, handled the payments, and ensured our bags were taken to the bus and put on in plain sight. Upon seeing all was as it should be, he wished us well and told us he would be ready and waiting on Sunday morning when we returned to Jordan, just call to let him know what time.

Then we were off! All settled in and ready to read a bit and write a little, we hunkered down for the hour ride into Israel. Ok. That lasted approximately four minutes. Turns out the bus at the Jordanian border takes you through the literal middle of nowhere where you'll find sand for miles and to the border of Israel. Just right there. No farther. So... Out we go!

After a few minutes going through security, I caught a glimpse of my first yarmulke and I knew I was in heaven. Know me for a week or two and hopefully you've found out one thing: I love the Jews. Truth! I am enamored with everything about their culture. The idea I was getting to finally emerge myself in it? Well, let's just say it didn't help and Sheryl had to hear about it every minute of the day... And yes, I will most definitely be having a Seder again this year.

No one needed to explain reasons for passport stamping hesitation (with an Israeli stamp you are not allowed into the UAE, Syria, Saudi, etc. but who's caring?) - stamp with vigor! With pride! I'm in Israel! We made it! This was a get for God (and me) as I have wanted to attain what Abu called my Christian Haji. The Islamic pilgrimage to Mecca is called Haji in Arabic and he said soon, Sheryl and I would have completed ours by following every major spot of our Savior's journey.

Once on the other side and left to our own devices, we became a little, if not quite, overwhelmed. We had planned to take the bus but were finding the cost was not in positive relation (so economical!) to the time it would take to switch in Jerusalem to get to Tel Aviv, our first stop. Oh, Taha! You had me at "50 extra shekels"! Equalling only about 10 bucks between the two of us, we decided this was the best option for getting into the city by the sea and took our new driver for the next hour and a half up on his offer to take us.

As we drove along, we saw Jericho, the oldest city in the world and one whose walls were fragile to God's plan and a few good men marching around them seven times way back when. Remember? I started singing my Sunday School song and Taha joined right in... We all remember.

Upon arrival in Tel Aviv we detoured from the hotel to locate an ATM and providentially got a brief tour of our neighborhood and its main street, Rothschild. Once we were settled with Taha, our first order of business was to treat ourselves to some lunch and a walk around the town until our cool artsy room was ready.

Up, down, and all around we wandered until we settled on Landwer's Coffee Shop. Two major things brought us here: salads and outdoor seating. The day was beautiful and perfect for people watching (do you have any idea how gorgeous these people are?!) and we basked in what would be the only sunshine we'd see in Israel. It was such a delight to relax while we fell instantly and madly in love with this beautiful city. It reminded us so much of our own...

Following a brief rundown of our digs for the next two nights, we took off down to see the sea and snap some shots. As we moved towards the water, we could feel the change in tide as the wind grew faster and rain started falling. Not wanting to get caught in the downpour, we basically sprinted back into the Newe Zedek area to do some covert shopping.

After tooling around there for a while, we headed (on recommendation) to the Tel Aviv Arts and Crafts Fair which only happens on Tuesdays and Fridays. Thankfully, today was Tuesday! We had a fun time walking throughout the stalls, picking up some things (along with bag loads of gummies), and then finding our way back to Rothschild to grab a drink at the Tel Aviv Brewhouse.

Though we were going to stop and have dinner there, we weren't too hungry so after the first round we took to the street to find a place to enjoy a nice meal. Both of us were feeling like a little Italian though I was of the mindset I should have as much lamb (my favorite meat) as I could get my hands on! We found and settled on Rustico for dinner at the bar (our favorite place to sit) and made fast friends with Roy, our bartender, and some other patrons down the table. We had a lovely night full of laughs and it was a quintessential example of Israeli hospitality.

Once done with dinner, and wrapping up necessary Facebook friend requests, we headed home to tuck in for the night. Sheryl, being the consummate adventurer she is took to an afterhours club with our new friends while I slid into bed. I knew there so was much more this country, which had already stolen my heart, had for us tomorrow.

*Of note: this place is in no way dangerous... but you already knew that. (wink)

On Israel

Though I didn't mention it back then, Israel, and Tel Aviv specifically quickly became the one place in the world I would live if I didn't live in San Francisco (or another spot here in the US). The